I literally have had the song by Marty Robbins, Streets of Laredo going through my head for several days as we approach Laredo. Not the same, clearly. 

We left a little later because we had a short distance to go. But oh my the height meters in the first bit were intense and beautiful. 

Nine kms in we had our first real stop. We were both struggling a bit—tired, legs feeling heavy, just meh. But after that little rest we found our second wind. 

There was another steep climb out of Hazas. Our mantra climbing was Thank God for the switchbacks (which meant it wasn’t as steep), shadows, wind and each other!!

We decided to take an alternative route which meant is was 2 kms shorter. It was great. 

We arrived early but were able to drop off our bags at the albergue and took our big meal of the day for lunch. We found a delightful restaurant and had a very filling and satisfying meal. The host even left the bottle of liqor de hierbas on the table. Help yourself. 

Laundry is done. Relaxing. Then another little walk before bedtime. 

First let me apologize for falling off the grid. We are fine. We have had some minor issues of sore feet, painful groin, and expensive accommodations. So in line with those things we decided to walk but also move ahead. Our goal was to get past Bilbao and hopefully more reasonable prices. 

We had a really nice stay in Markina-Xemein. We stayed at a lovely albergue dinner was amazing, the hosts wee lovely and also really great connections with other pilgrims!! Perfect. 

So after our great stay in Markina, we moved past Bilbao. It is one thing to decide you are moving past something and somewhat another to decide you are going to have a better attitude. And once I decided that it literally that made all the difference. 

I think if I were to do the Norte again I would start after Bilbao. But having said that the route from Bayonne to Bilbao has stunning views. Just quite expensive and touristy. That’s simply my opinion. If you feel differently that’s cool. 

Funny story from yesterday we made it to Castro Urdialez thinking we only had 800 meters to get to our accommodation only to discover while having a very nice lunch that we had 6 more kms to go. So we had less than two hours to make it before my coaching session. I let my client know I’d be late, and I was late but they were very understanding. 

Today was another good day. My heel or Achilles is bothering me but not too bad. Tomorrow we head to Laredo. 19 kms. Give or take. 

Yesterday when we got on the train we were followed by several young g men who looked to be going to school for quite awhile with backpacks and large suitcases. They seemed happy to see each other and were talking quickly and loudly to each other. I thought to myself “oh dear I hope this doesn’t go on the whole ride”. Within 5 minutes I was hearing gentle snores from the young men. So it was peaceful.

Today was a nice walk with beach views and mountain vistas. Absolutely stunning. We started with a nice coffee and croissant at the bakery in Bidart, Maison Dourthe Boulangerie, highly recommend!!!

I seem to have inherited Noël’s gastric issue from yesterday. Fortunately we found a very accommodating hotel where we stopped for a coke and potty break. 

We arrived in Saint Jean de Luz early because of our short day. When we stopped by the albergue there was no one there. So we went to a cafe to contemplate lunch. But decided to check out the line. And now there were several people waiting in the line. One other pilgrim and two people for the catholic charities in the same building. The pilgrims are upstairs and the catholic charities are downstairs. 

The hospitalero Myriam, welcomed us in at 1:30 even though the opening time is 3:00. That was nice. While we were waiting we ate our chicken bagels from the boulangerie. It was delicious. 

Once we checked in and got settled we decided to go walk around. There were 4 of us checked in at that point. While walking around we decided to just go to the grocery store and pick up some food for for dinner. 

When we returned to the albergue it was full, all beds taken. There are people from Belgium, France Germany and USA. 

As is so typical of pilgrimage many of us are sitting around and sharing stories. We’ve already become friends and started a camino family. The plan is to share dinner together!!

We had a really good day. But it is getting hot again. So we plan to start around 7:30 in the morning. 

Hope you have a great day!!!

Dax to SJPdP to Bayonne 1-2 September 

The drive from Dax to SJPdP was short and easy. We were blessed with beautiful vistas of the Pyrenees.

After parking the car to get it charged we walked into town to eat at Amato. It never disappoints. 

Our friends Karin and Axx had a full house at the hotel but they let us crash on their couch. Anne one of the people helping at the gite fixed a delicious dinner for the pilgrims and had enough for our dinner. After dinner we said goodbye to Karin and Axx (they went to sleep at the house they are building). 

The pilgrims gathered for their dinner and it was odd to hear them but not be sharing in their stories and excitement. But nonetheless just overhearing bits and pieces. 

An early rise at 5 am to get to the train station on time for our quick tripe to Bayonne. Poor Noël spent most of the day with some gastric distress so we went from cafe to cafe. But finally after a good lunch it settled down. 

The walk today had the highlight of coming into Bidart and seeing the ocean. So beautiful. 

We made it 18 kms and are a bit tired but that’s normal. I think we will go and do a little exploring before dinner. 

See you tomorrow!!

The last few days have involved a lot of packing and te-packing our backpacks. As well as loading the car after two months in St Germain de Confolens. 

We were able to visit for a bit with David and Teddy (our hosts) last night. We really enjoyed our stay there. 

Today we drove from StGdC to Dax. It was quite uneventful. Which is good when you are on the road. 

Two more nights of sleep until walking Camino del Norte. Really looking forward to this adventure. 

There are places that have a haunting solemnity about them, a sacredness about them because of what has happened on their grounds. There are at least four places I have visited that have this haunting solemnity of the sacred occurs: Culloden Moor in Scotland, Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, Dachau concentration camp in Germany and Oradour sur Glane in France. 

For me these places seem filled with the energy of lives cut short and the depravity of humankind; Filled with songs unsung, conversations silenced, and potential lost. 

We walked through Oradour sur Glane with hundreds of other visitors silent, whispering comments as if not to disturb the now found peace of a community defiled. The signs of businesses abruptly shuttered and the signs telling us of where people had been shot and burned whispered to us of the horrors. 

Though this was very hard I highly recommend if you are in the area because it reminds us of the horrors of war and hopefully encourages us not to repeat the past. 

Here is the history of the small village in France. Six people survived this attack. 

The martyr village of Oradour-sur-Glane

Oak – ruins of Oradour-sur-Glane, © Oradour-sur-Glane Memorial Centre

The story of the massacre

On June 10, 1944 , a unit of soldiers from the 2nd SS Panzer Division “Das Reich  ” surrounded the village of Oradour-sur-Glane . Its 643 inhabitants—men, women, and children—were massacred by gunfire. This tragedy remains to this day a symbol of Nazi barbarity.

The total annihilation of the village of Oradour-sur-Glane and its population, the ruthless determination of the executioners, raised Oradour to the rank of “archetype of massacres of civilian populations” as early as 1944 .

A memorial site classified as a historical monument

On November 28, 1944, the Provisional Government decided to classify and preserve the ruins of Oradour, thus formalizing its national recognition. The martyred village then became a symbol of France, scarred by the German occupation. Simultaneously, the widespread dissemination of images of the ruins and the mourning reinforced the desire to make Oradour a testimony firmly rooted in collective memory. Gradually, the ruins were transformed into a place of remembrance, where visitors are invited to reflect on this tragic past. Classified as historical monuments in 1946 , the ruins of the martyred village attract 300,000 visitors each year .

Happy Anniversary to my brother Bill and SIL Jane on their 54th wedding anniversary!!

I woke in the night with a pain on the joint of my big toe. It seems I am developing a bunion or in French oignon de pie, an onion on the foot. It’s very early but enough painful that we made a trip to the pharmacy to start treating it. Oh the joys of age!! Thankfully I swapped wearing uncomfortably high heels 10 years ago for chacos and hiking boots. 

We had great aspirations this morning for getting some more hill training, exercises and a couple of 5 km hikes in but the weather and errands had other ideas. We still did some light exercises and our hill training and a brief walk. Still a good day. 

It’s a reminder that life doesn’t really go in a straight line but weaves its way around obstacles, follows the detours, makes the most of whatever comes your way. Even a heart shaped tomato!!🍅

And tomorrow is another day!!

Oh and check out our beautiful basil plants!!